Thursday, August 27, 2009
Running Soon (Fairly Soon)
I've now got enough track laid to permit some running. I'm going to complete just a little more and then begin wiring. There is still about 40 percent of the benchwork to complete, but I've decided to get the completed section operating and maybe even start some scenery before moving on to the rest which, since it will be the port area with two piers, will be pretty time-consuming construction.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Smooth Transitions
I think my handlaid track has improved over the years. I've learned to take more time, measure with more care, and pay attention to transitions. Look at prototype track: there are no abrupt changes of direction. Easements are the rule, with long gradual shifts of direction on curves and, especially, at turnouts. Locomotives and cars should roll smoothly through the trackwork. The more I've paid attention to this, the better my trains have operated and the fewer corrections I've had to make.
The key is patience. I've learned not to hurry tracklaying in order to get something running. Also, in the track planning process I've learned to be a lot more conservative in deciding what will fit. Designing a layout with more-than-ample space allowances for approaches to turnouts and curves really pays off. It just isn't worth it to try and cram that one additional siding, no matter how desirable it seems.
One of the finest...maybe the finest...and most inspirational examples of quality handlaid model railroad track was in the January 1961 Model Railroader, a copy of which I was fortunate to find at a train show. Some libraries may have it, too. The article is "Britain's Best" and features the O gauge fine-scale layout of the late English modeler W. S. Norris. The trackwork, with its broad, flowing curves and flawless turnouts is a work of art. The photos could easily be mistaken for the real thing. Needless to say, rolling stock and structures on this layout were of equally high standards.
I try to keep Mr. Norris' work in mind when I lay track. I am a long, long way from his level of workmanship, but seeing a layout like his is great inspiration to try harder...and not rush things.
The key is patience. I've learned not to hurry tracklaying in order to get something running. Also, in the track planning process I've learned to be a lot more conservative in deciding what will fit. Designing a layout with more-than-ample space allowances for approaches to turnouts and curves really pays off. It just isn't worth it to try and cram that one additional siding, no matter how desirable it seems.
One of the finest...maybe the finest...and most inspirational examples of quality handlaid model railroad track was in the January 1961 Model Railroader, a copy of which I was fortunate to find at a train show. Some libraries may have it, too. The article is "Britain's Best" and features the O gauge fine-scale layout of the late English modeler W. S. Norris. The trackwork, with its broad, flowing curves and flawless turnouts is a work of art. The photos could easily be mistaken for the real thing. Needless to say, rolling stock and structures on this layout were of equally high standards.
I try to keep Mr. Norris' work in mind when I lay track. I am a long, long way from his level of workmanship, but seeing a layout like his is great inspiration to try harder...and not rush things.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
A Good Suggestion
Darrell's comment yesterday regarding curving Masonite for backdrop corners is a worthwhile suggestion. I have curved Masonite around corners in the past, though not with a tight curve; wetting it as he suggested may be just what I need, because my new layout will need pretty tight backdrop curves.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Looking Ahead
As track laying progresses, some things I'm pondering...
Backdrop:
It seems that the preferred procedure is to install a backdrop first, before any track laying, etc., is begun. And that's what I'd normally do, except that I'm still debating what sort of backdrop material to use. On past layouts I've used Masonite, with the smooth side painted sky blue and then with white to create light haze and clouds. Masonite doesn't bend that readily in corners, so I experimented with using the smooth side of a linoleum runner for the corners. Both materials were okay, as long as they were properly braced.
My current layout is "semi-modular" in that it is designed to be easily broken down into sections in the event we ever move; each section is 28" wide and section lengths range between 28" and 48", connected with carriage bolts. After the pain of completely dismantling my last two layouts, I have learned my lesson and have vowed "never again." Even if, years from now, we move to some type of senior housing small apartment, I hope to be able to use some of these sections.
Anyway, with this approach it seems most practicable to have the backdrop in sections as well. I may wind up using Masonite again, but I'm looking at other materials, such as the smooth foam boards sold (in this area) at Hobby Lobby. That would be a light and cheap option if the material takes acrylic paint without warping. Also, there is the matter of curving material for corners, which the foam board simply won't allow.
Structures:
I think I've settled on a plan for my depot. The plan was published in Kalmbach's Easy To Build Model Railroad Structures and is a combination freight and passenger station. In S scale it will occupy a space roughly 5" x 20".
I'm going to rebuild my roundhouse, which suffered some damage in our move last year from Idaho to Texas, despite my best packing efforts. The basic framework and roof are fine, but the sides and windows didn't fare too well and besides, I think I could improve on my work. I've already purchased some Plastruct brick sheets for this purpose. The roundhouse will probably be the first structure installed on my new layout, with the depot closely following.
Other structures survived the move with little or no damage: houses, businesses (lumber company, retail stores, coal dealer, grain elevator, feed dealer, Texaco station, etc.), a freight house, tool house, and a church. These can be quickly installed on my layout. However, this being 1947, the coal dealer will become a fuel dealer with both coal and heating oil. Also, a Texas seaport has no place for an inland Northwest grain elevator or feed dealer, so I'll probably wind up partially dismantling these structures and incorporating the materials into something more fitting.
Before we knew we were moving, my next project would have been a 25-ton coaling station. Fortunately, I never got past the thinking stage. Texas steam locos were generally oil-fired, at least in this part of the state.
Rolling Stock:
My Rex 0-6-0 is coal-fired, but will be modified to represent an oil-burner, again, much more accurate for Texas. I have a great billboard reefer, but these disappeared in the late 1930s and so this car will have to be repainted and relettered. Finally, my scratchbuilt cinder car, which had spent much of its time on my prior layout's depressed ashpit service track, will become a piece of maintenance-of-way equipment. Other than some relettering required on various pieces of equipment, all else should be fine for the new locale and era.
Backdrop:
It seems that the preferred procedure is to install a backdrop first, before any track laying, etc., is begun. And that's what I'd normally do, except that I'm still debating what sort of backdrop material to use. On past layouts I've used Masonite, with the smooth side painted sky blue and then with white to create light haze and clouds. Masonite doesn't bend that readily in corners, so I experimented with using the smooth side of a linoleum runner for the corners. Both materials were okay, as long as they were properly braced.
My current layout is "semi-modular" in that it is designed to be easily broken down into sections in the event we ever move; each section is 28" wide and section lengths range between 28" and 48", connected with carriage bolts. After the pain of completely dismantling my last two layouts, I have learned my lesson and have vowed "never again." Even if, years from now, we move to some type of senior housing small apartment, I hope to be able to use some of these sections.
Anyway, with this approach it seems most practicable to have the backdrop in sections as well. I may wind up using Masonite again, but I'm looking at other materials, such as the smooth foam boards sold (in this area) at Hobby Lobby. That would be a light and cheap option if the material takes acrylic paint without warping. Also, there is the matter of curving material for corners, which the foam board simply won't allow.
Structures:
I think I've settled on a plan for my depot. The plan was published in Kalmbach's Easy To Build Model Railroad Structures and is a combination freight and passenger station. In S scale it will occupy a space roughly 5" x 20".
I'm going to rebuild my roundhouse, which suffered some damage in our move last year from Idaho to Texas, despite my best packing efforts. The basic framework and roof are fine, but the sides and windows didn't fare too well and besides, I think I could improve on my work. I've already purchased some Plastruct brick sheets for this purpose. The roundhouse will probably be the first structure installed on my new layout, with the depot closely following.
Other structures survived the move with little or no damage: houses, businesses (lumber company, retail stores, coal dealer, grain elevator, feed dealer, Texaco station, etc.), a freight house, tool house, and a church. These can be quickly installed on my layout. However, this being 1947, the coal dealer will become a fuel dealer with both coal and heating oil. Also, a Texas seaport has no place for an inland Northwest grain elevator or feed dealer, so I'll probably wind up partially dismantling these structures and incorporating the materials into something more fitting.
Before we knew we were moving, my next project would have been a 25-ton coaling station. Fortunately, I never got past the thinking stage. Texas steam locos were generally oil-fired, at least in this part of the state.
Rolling Stock:
My Rex 0-6-0 is coal-fired, but will be modified to represent an oil-burner, again, much more accurate for Texas. I have a great billboard reefer, but these disappeared in the late 1930s and so this car will have to be repainted and relettered. Finally, my scratchbuilt cinder car, which had spent much of its time on my prior layout's depressed ashpit service track, will become a piece of maintenance-of-way equipment. Other than some relettering required on various pieces of equipment, all else should be fine for the new locale and era.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Historical Research
My previous layout was set in a small fictional northern Idaho agricultural town in September 1939, and I did a lot of research, including frequent visits to towns in that locale, to get the right feel of the time and place. Much like watching an old movie, buildings, houses, vehicles and signs can all give visitors the idea of the era being depicted.
Now I'm starting a layout set in a fictional small-to-medium Texas seaport in April 1947, and I'm finding the research to be almost as much fun as actual layout construction. The Internet, of course, is an incredible resource, with its vintage photos, Port of Houston Magazine archives, etc. I also recently came across a new book, Rails Around Houston, with very useful information and photos.
For Father's Day I received an Amazon.com gift certificate and used it to buy two books: the Model Railroader Cyclopedia, 1947 edition, which is loaded with plans for locomotives, freight and passenger cars, and structures, and Model Railroads (1940) by Edwin Alexander, which also has a wealth of plans. Both books are in mint condition.
On our recent Iowa trip I found an April 1947 National Geographic in an antique store that contains a half-dozen full-page railroad ads; these will be framed and displayed just inside the train room entrance. Again, this will help create an impression of the era being modeled.
Certainly, it's not going to be too hard to move forward in time the eight years between 1939 and 1947. Signs and vehicles won't be much different, although I will have to "update" my theater marquee: the 1939 version features John Wayne in Stagecoach, and for 1947 it will advertise My Favorite Brunette, starring Bob Hope and Dorothy Lamour, which was in fact released in April of that year!
Is all this worth it? Does it work? I think so. The reward came when an older gentleman, upon seeing photos of my Idaho layout, told me he felt as if he'd stepped back into his growing-up years of the late-1930's.
Now I'm starting a layout set in a fictional small-to-medium Texas seaport in April 1947, and I'm finding the research to be almost as much fun as actual layout construction. The Internet, of course, is an incredible resource, with its vintage photos, Port of Houston Magazine archives, etc. I also recently came across a new book, Rails Around Houston, with very useful information and photos.
For Father's Day I received an Amazon.com gift certificate and used it to buy two books: the Model Railroader Cyclopedia, 1947 edition, which is loaded with plans for locomotives, freight and passenger cars, and structures, and Model Railroads (1940) by Edwin Alexander, which also has a wealth of plans. Both books are in mint condition.
On our recent Iowa trip I found an April 1947 National Geographic in an antique store that contains a half-dozen full-page railroad ads; these will be framed and displayed just inside the train room entrance. Again, this will help create an impression of the era being modeled.
Certainly, it's not going to be too hard to move forward in time the eight years between 1939 and 1947. Signs and vehicles won't be much different, although I will have to "update" my theater marquee: the 1939 version features John Wayne in Stagecoach, and for 1947 it will advertise My Favorite Brunette, starring Bob Hope and Dorothy Lamour, which was in fact released in April of that year!
Is all this worth it? Does it work? I think so. The reward came when an older gentleman, upon seeing photos of my Idaho layout, told me he felt as if he'd stepped back into his growing-up years of the late-1930's.
Testing Trackwork
As mentioned, I use track gauges and rulers and spike every tie in my handlaid trackwork. I also keep a freight truck (wheelset) handy to test what I've just laid. But then I have a couple of additional tests, which I'm sure many other modelers also use. I run my most "tempermental" car over the trackage, particularly the switchwork, to smoke out any problems. In my case the car is a passenger coach which actually could stand a little additional weight. I'll hold off correcting the weight, however, until I've tested my track. This car is adept at finding the smallest flaw; for example, if the gauge needs a slight widening at the switchpoints where the diverging stock rail has its "kink."
Finally, I like to couple two or three freight cars together and push them back and forth through the switchwork. They aren't as finicky as the coach, but it's a good test nevertheless.
Handlaying track (for me, at least) is very time-consuming, but the time is well spent if it means not having derailments.
Finally, I like to couple two or three freight cars together and push them back and forth through the switchwork. They aren't as finicky as the coach, but it's a good test nevertheless.
Handlaying track (for me, at least) is very time-consuming, but the time is well spent if it means not having derailments.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Miscellaneous Trackwork Notes
Rail Color: Once everything is wired, tested, up and running and any bugs have been corrected, I will paint the rail sides with a mixture of "rust" and brown. Since this layout is set in a port, the rust color will be more emphasized than it was on my Idaho-themed layout. Ballast will be added using a 50/50 mix of Elmer's glue and water.
Turnouts: I use three-point track gauges for all tracklaying except for turnouts; for those I use a ruler to measure gauge at every tie.
Turnouts: I use three-point track gauges for all tracklaying except for turnouts; for those I use a ruler to measure gauge at every tie.
More Construction Photos
From the top...
Photo 1: A shot of the future turntable and roundhouse. The inspection pits have been cut out.
Photos 2 & 3: Two more views of the midsection of the layout. Streets with commercial buildings will be on both sides of this section of track.
Photo 4: Now that some track is laid (though still unpowered), I can at least display my motive power. On the left is my Rex 0-6-0, built from a kit I assembled in 1991. It's still lettered for my former Idaho & Palouse RR but will be soon relettered for the Gulf Harbor Terminal Railway, as will the brand-new S Helper Service NW2 next to it.
Construction Resumed!
After an absence to visit relatives in Iowa and other interruptions, I'm back into construction and seem to making progress!
The top photo shows the beginnings of the yard and passenger depot tracks. The depot will be about where the loose pile of rail is in the upper left hand corner. The second photo is from the other end of the yard/depot area.
The third photo is midway across the "top" of my horseshoe-shaped layout. The roadbed is white pine, glued to the particleboard table top. Balsa ties, stained with water-thinned burnt umber acrylic paint, have been glued to the roadbed, then Code 100 rail was laid on that.
I like solid trackwork, so I spike every tie. It's not necessary, but it is indeed solid! I make my own turnout components, including frogs and switchpoints. The frog flangeways are solder-filled and filed to the corrrect depth. All turnouts are #6, and all are manually thrown. I use "hot frogs" and power is routed by the points, which are connected with two brass "tie rods." There are also brass tabs soldered under the stock rails adjacent to the points to enhance electrical contact.
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